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Printing the housing

We start by printing the housing.
I use a bambulab A1 mini with a flat build plate as well as a 0,2 mm nozzle. The layer heigth is set to 0,06 mm, material in use is PLA.
My printer takes around 1,3 g of PLA and 70 minutes to print the housing for a coupler.

Different print settings will likely work as well, but I did not test them. The 0,2 mm nozzle does some heavy lifiting in terms of print quality, and I can not recommend using a bigger nozzle. With that restriction, different materials might not be easy to print.
Printing this coupler in resin should work as well. Allthough I did not test this with this specific design. The clips on the centering devices might cause issues with very brittle material. You might end up glueing them in when using a resin printer.

Step 1.1: Place the objects on the print bed as seen above

Step 1.2: Slice the files. You can see the small nozzle doing magic here. The thin walls work best when printing slow and fine

Step 1.3: The print job is done

Step 1.4: Remove the centering devices from the rafts. I recommend using a paper towel to remove the parts, so you do not end up touching the build plate with your greasy hands

Step 1.5: Remove the other four printed parts and the rafts

Step 1.6: Overview of the printed pieces

Step 1.7: Clip the centering devices into the upper housing

Step 1.8: All done! The housing can be put to the side for now.

Preparing the wire harness

Assembly of a pogo pin contact.

Step 2.1: Cut 25 to 28 mm from the cable.
Step 2.2: And seperate two wires from that. We'll need these two to connect between both the VCC and GND connectors from one side to the other.
Step 2.3: In case you're using a flat ribbon cable, seperate the ends of the cable a bit to help working on it.
Step 2.4: Remove 7 to 9 mm of insulation from the two short wires as well as VCC, GND and the C-wire that you want to have on the fixed side for this very coupler.
In case this will be a front facing coupler, this will be C1.
In case this will be a back facing coupler, this will be C2.
Step 2.5: Crimp the wire end ferrules on the wires. The C1/C2 wire will have their own wire end ferrule. The VCC and GND wires will share the wire end ferrules with their extra cable that connects to the other side of the coupler.
Step 2.6: Remove 5 to 7 mm of insulation from all the other wires and crimp the pogo pins to the wire.
Step 2.7: Shorten the wire end ferrules to 5 mm length.
Step 2.8: Crimp the steel cord capes on the wire end ferrules.

Assembly

Assembly of the whole thing.

Step 3.1: Prepare the housing and the wire harness.

Step 3.2: Clip both parts of the housing together and secure it with the technic pin 4274.

Step 3.3: Push the contacts into the housing. Starting with the pogo pins works best for me, but there is no fixed order.

Step 3.4: Push the clips in from the side to secure the wire harness to the housing.

Step 3.5: All done! At least for the coupler.

The other side

of the cable....
In case you want to add a PF connector to the other end of the wire.

Step 4.1: Cut the housing on the connector. This seems weird, I'm well aware. But we're using larger wires than the connector is designed for. If we would not do this, the connector would not be able to close fully, and thus would be bigger than two plates.

Step 4.2: Place to cable into the upper part of the connector. Make sure of the clips only cutting the intended wire.

Step 4.3: Close the connector. Mine need some extra help in that regard.

Have fun with it!

Mounting the coupler to the train.

Step 22: mount the coupler to your loco / tender / wagon / coach.

Step 23: have fun with the coupler!